Wiring a light bar?

[Pittsburgh Proud]

Can anyone tell me do I have to wire each switch separately or can I jump hot and ground wires from switch to switch?:wacko::unsure:
If I do that I would only have 3 wires exiting the switch box. Please take a second and look at the diagram I am trying to upload and please let me know if this would work or am I all wrong? :unsure: My diagram was just something quick to show the backside of the switches.
Thanks in advance. B)

 

[Outbac1]

PP

Its been a long time since I wired something but I don't believe you can run a common hot wire. We used to run a common ground bar accross the ground terminals of the switches. This had the same effect as running seperate wires from the ground to a common ground bolt. When the hot wire goes from the power source to the light it passes through the switch. This is what allows you to turn the light on or off. I think you would be better off to run seperate power wires to each light. Depending on the power draw we would always use at least a 14 or 16 ga. wire. You should also use a fuse, fusable link or a circut breaker on each line.

Hope this has been some help. Memory is not what it used to be.

 

[Pittsburgh Proud]

PP

Its been a long time since I wired something but I don't believe you can run a common hot wire. We used to run a common ground bar accross the ground terminals of the switches. This had the same effect as running seperate wires from the ground to a common ground bolt. When the hot wire goes from the power source to the light it passes through the switch. This is what allows you to turn the light on or off. I think you would be better off to run seperate power wires to each light. Depending on the power draw we would always use at least a 14 or 16 ga. wire. You should also use a fuse, fusable link or a circut breaker on each line.

Hope this has been some help. Memory is not what it used to be.

I had a feeling that might be the case. I wonder if I ran a solid hot threw the box and jumped a line off the solid hot to each switch that would work. That way each switch would have a solid hot feeding and no switch in front interrupting it.
Thanks for the info. B)

 

[MMiz]

* moved to ambulances and equipment.

 

[reaper]

You can run a common 12v to all switches. But, you have to use a relay for each light. The switch is only used to activate the relay and does not have a large draw.

Always use relays when wiring anything with a large draw or you will melt the switches.

 

[Outbac1]

I think Reaper is right. I remember we used to use relays.

 

[Pittsburgh Proud]

* moved to ambulances and equipment.

Thanks and sorry.... B)

 

[Outbac1]

Hey PP
Nothing to be sorry about. It was a legitimate question. I just hope I was a help and not a hinderence.

 

[keith10247]

Just make sure that when you put the light bar on top, that you have it facing the right direction. Someone installed the lightbar facing backwards on the top of our EMS Chase Buggy. The alley lights are labeled properly on the switch but the light bar is supposed to be red and white...the red and white face back and just the red faces forward. The opticom on the front acts as our front white light I guess. I am sure it is slightly illegal since I do not believe you can have white strobes facing to the rear but it is near the front of the suburban so you cannot really see it from behind.

Good Luck!

This isnt for a POV is it? :lol:

 

[Pittsburgh Proud]

Just make sure that when you put the light bar on top, that you have it facing the right direction. Someone installed the lightbar facing backwards on the top of our EMS Chase Buggy. The alley lights are labeled properly on the switch but the light bar is supposed to be red and white...the red and white face back and just the red faces forward. The opticom on the front acts as our front white light I guess. I am sure it is slightly illegal since I do not believe you can have white strobes facing to the rear but it is near the front of the suburban so you cannot really see it from behind.

Good Luck!

This isnt for a POV is it? :lol:

That would suck, Yep for my full size van this spring. I'd like to figure out the best way to wire the switch box now so I can wire the box in my basement and have it done so when spring hits and in the next moth or so when I start driving my van again I'll be able to throw it up on top and mount it.
I park mt van in the winter and bought a little saturn for a winter/ work car. 35 bucks to fill the tank was a lot better than 110 bucks to fill the tank. I'll use the van once in a while and drive my car for work.
That's why I'm trying to figure out if I can run a common hot and common ground to make this box up. I want to use the least amount of wire so everything gets mounted nice and clean. B)

 

[Pittsburgh Proud]

Anyone? :unsure:B)

 

[mattulance]

Relays sound like a good idea , but depending on the type of box you use it [might[/I]not be necessary. I had bar on my van and the switch box/siren I was using had 20a rockers in it,and worked fine without relays. Not sure what type of bar you are using but using ground side switching might be difficult if the bar is set up for + switching, the rotators,power supplies, flashers,etc might ground through the chassis of the bar.

 

[Pittsburgh Proud]

A Streehawk light bar is what the bar is and I do have 20 amp switches, so I too might be alright. B)

 

[paramedix]

Reaper... you nailed it (wired it!)

I would definitely go for the relay system, it also protects the other inlets. Don't forget to have a fuse inline with every system. This will protect not only the light system, but your auto's electronics as well.

You can have 0- common running to all the switches, but do not link the 12+ (or whatever the voltage may be) to the common sector. You will end up with a system that draws much more power than its suppose to and it might risk damaging your links.

Also wire the system parallel and not in serie... just a thought. I have worked on some bars before where people could not understand why the cruise light went out and now the whole bar is off! You are definitely in the right direction...

 

[mattulance]

Paramedix makes a good point on fuses, although they are more expensive auto reseting breakers are sometimes a more reliable type circut protection.

 

[Pittsburgh Proud]

Paramedix makes a good point on fuses, although they are more expensive auto reseting breakers are sometimes a more reliable type circut protection.

You mean like an auto fuse? B):unsure:

 

[mattulance]

I guess that is what you would call it, you know what I mean they usually have either two blades to fit into a fuse box or they have terminal studs.
They are just nice because they will automatically reset, and they act more as a "slow blow" ,they seem not open up as much from current spikes.

 

[tydek07]

Yes you can use one common power wire, but it has to be big enough to run power to all the lights. Depending on the type of lights that you use, will take different amounts of power.

 

[Pittsburgh Proud]

Yes you can use one common power wire, but it has to be big enough to run power to all the lights. Depending on the type of lights that you use, will take different amounts of power.

Gotcha, thank you... Now I need a good in line fuse. I'm using 12 gauge wire to set everything up, thought I might as well use it all the way threw and be safe.
The wires on the light bar are thiner than 12 must be 16 maybe even 18?

 

[emtwacker710]

try out this forum... elightbars.org everything lighting, they can give you a deffinate answer